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If you plan to blue ("anodize") it, you will have to have it as smooth as you can possibly get it. You can use "cold blue," available at gun shops, some hardware stores, "outdoor" stores, etc. "Cold blue" tends to leave an odor which lasts for a long, long time. I would have it professionally blued by a gunsmith or other who does such work, if I opted for a blued finish. He should be able to clean it up and smooth it before blueing. You can then "clear coat" it with spray lacquer or enamel, as were originals, if you choose. If you wish to paint it, pits, etc., will have to be filled to get a good finish. I would not use a gray or red primer, since the originals did not, and, if the finish is chipped or scratched through, the primer will show. Look for a black primer or use a "rust killer" polymer, available at auto and hardware stores, to arrest any remaining rust and act as a primer. The paint itself is important. Many spray paints are appropriate. I would choose a flat or semi-flat paint. They do polish up after drying to a desired lustre. Some paints, unfortunately, leave a slightly irredescent look in them, so you need to find one that does not do that. There are oil-based enamel paints available at hardware and auto stores, but they are "touchier" to work with than the more modern paints. If you have the patience, I would probably go that route. When dry, they look like period paint, without the irredescence, and they are closer in content to original paint than the modern ones. Usually, you will need to wet sand and polish the painted finish when dry. Materials are available at auto paint stores and elsewhere.
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