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Posted
Hello,

Can anyone advise on the process for removal of dark spots and pits from from blades. If this topic has already been discussed please direct me to the correct thread.

Thank You
 
Posts: 5 | Location: Bay Area, California | Registered: 11 October 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Pits can only be removed by removing the metal around them. This can be done by grinding, with a file, emery cloth, sandpaper, etc. Much depends on how may pits there are, where they are located and how deep they are. Pits can also be filled by welding. In either case, you really need to know what you are doing or turn the project over to someone who does. You can ruin a decent blade very easily. Also, in removing pits, you are removing the crossgrain. One often seen mistake is where someone had abraded a specific area of the blade to remove a problem, leaving a "dished out" area on it. Very easy to spot. As to dark spots, you might try about a 1500 grit sandpaper. The wet-dry type works very well. Start with it wet. You may have to go to a coarser grit for really bad spots and work your back up to a finer grit to finish it off. Again, you will remove crossgraining. Some dark spots run deceptively deep and you may be surprised to find they go several millimeters into the metal. Instead of sandpaper or emery cloth, some use stones to remove metal. I recommmend you start with the least damaging material for spots, such as metal polish or rouge. If that is unsatisfactory, you can then begin to work your way down on different grits of paper or stones.
 
Posts: 1703 | Location: Mid-South, USA | Registered: 30 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Picture of kingtiger
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In all my experience, I would not attempt it in any very serious manner. A slightly improved blade is what you will get at the expense of the loss of any original crossgraining remaining. Very light wipe with MAAS or a gentle polish and stop. That's my experience.

Mark Wink


"I'm your huckleberry, that's just my game"

 
Posts: 4730 | Location: United States | Registered: 19 December 2000Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thank You Gentlemen for the information. Not being a professional metal smith I better leave well enough alone and perserve what I have.

Again, Thank You
 
Posts: 5 | Location: Bay Area, California | Registered: 11 October 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Picture of Eric Wien
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Hi Sarge,
I have not tried this product but have been told by other third reich collectors that it works good on black spot, the product is called "flitz". It comes in a past or liquid. The liquid works best on corrosion by breaking it down, it runs around $10.00-$15.00 for a bottle. I would try this first before polishing the blade, flitz will not harm the crossgrain or the good metal around the spots and pits.
I personally would never polish a blade and would rather live with some age spots than to loose any crossgrain or worse damage the blade.
Hope this helps.
Eric
 
Posts: 731 | Location: Garden City, MI | Registered: 13 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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