Bayonet Guys,

I just joined your ranks. As an SS dagger guy I surprised myself by buying two K98 bayonets today. From A vet's nephew who contacted me after finding GDC.

Both are from 1944. One is marked "cvl" and the other is marked "jwh". The numbers on the scabbards match the numbers on the blades. There is a letter underneath the number.

They appear unissued. The hilts and blades are blued. Is that correct for these? No sharpening and no wear, just runner marks. Same with scabbards - I think they are blued too. Minor surface rust on hilts and scabbards. The grips are wood and have spanner screws that are blued and appear to have never been turned.

I am interested in figuring out their worth. What pics would I need to post ?

Dave

Could You post the serial numbers with letter? best regards,Andy
Some pictures would be good for examine the overall condition.

Dave,

Welcome to the bayonet collector ranks. Your cvl marked bayonet was made by WKC. Your jwh bayonet ws made by the Staatliche Waffenfabrik Chatellerault in France. The blades are typically blued but some late S84/98 may have a black or greyish phosphate finish.

Here are pics
Numbers CVL on right

codes

Extra date on jwh

Tops. There are waffen marks mostly hidden by the top plate

jwh marks

jwh ball

cvl top marks. No bottom mark. There is a depression where it should be but I cannot read anything

general view 1

2

Grips - screws

Grips - spanners

Blades 1

Blades 2

I can shoot more if anyone needs other shots.

They appear unused, but carelessly stored. I got them from the Vet's nephew who said his Uncle was in the Merchant Marine in WWII.

Any estimates of retail value would be appreciated. Thanks,

Daev

Dave:

I have paid anywhere from $120 (on e-ban) to $300 for nice matching unsharpened K98s. I only buy Eickhorn/cof marked blades, so I wouldn't know if these are worth more or less. I would expect the French production to be the more rare and the more sought after.

John

Very nice pieces, thanks for the details, a early 1944 pieces, 1317a 44cvl and great jwh, congratulation, looks like brothers,best regards,Andy

Any thoughts are what these are worth would be appreciated. SS/SA daggers I am familiar with but issue bayonets are new to me. More pics can be shot if additional views would help.

Thanks
Dave

Oh man beautiful pieces wellcome to the bajonets of war congratz... if you want to sell please give me a PM off the récord offcourse lol but also will be shown for the puplic on my website

Hi Dave, your 2 '44 are very nice.

The 44cvl is a common maker and worth $150-180.

The jwh44 is a very sought after marking and worth over $300 in this condition. Being a early S block make it one of the first made in 1944, and one of the earliest known.

Congratulation, very nice purchase. Keep them in this condition, do NOT remove the grips to see what's under, there is nothing to see on a 1944, except damaging the bolts and nuts. Don't put oil, just keep them in a dry place and they'll stay that way!

Arnaud

Thanks for the help. I am learning quickly. The only thing I did was to put Renwax on them.

Wiking - go ahead and use the pictures or if you need different views, let me know.

Regards,
Dave

okay thanks dave very nice indeed

In today’s market they would be a very good score for anybody. With especially the ‘jwh’ being a sought after piece. If those are rust nodules forming on the blue. I personally would be a little more aggressive in treating them like I would a firearm that had rust starting to form. FP

Fred,

What would you recommend ?

Daev

Dave,
On a blued surface, I use a liberal application of Hoppes No.9 powder solvent with 0000 steel wool. I have found this to work quite well.
However, I'm sure others will have different suggestions.

Dave,

Over time I’ve used a number of different techniques. To some extent it depends on how deep, and how widespread the rust might be. Some are not comfortable with CLP because it has teflon, while others think that it helps float whatever you are going to use over the blue minimizing mechanical abrasion. Where the bluing is delicate I’ve also used a copper wool on the premise that it is less harsh than steel.

Looking at the state your bayonets are in - which does not appear to be that bad. After a soaking (overnight ?) in a light layer of a good gun oil (or CLP). What I use now is some relatively thin spring copper (hardened) I salvaged from an industrial application. And use it like a straight razor to decapitate the rust nodules. Gently wiping away the rust slurry which is removed and reapplying the oil to let it soak in before I start again. I also don’t rush the process which can take a day or two depending on how bad the rust might be.

PS: Please be very careful around the wood grips because you don’t want them to get oil soaked or be damaged in any way.

That will be 25 cents please.

Best Regards, FP

dave welcome aboard...may your collection grow at a minimum to 100 k98 bayonets :-)

as you begin to look for these bayonets you will find that it wont be easy for you to replicate find the condition of those two beauties. you can buy a sa or ss daggers all day in super condition..that is not the case with k98 bayonets. the prices continue to rise and could skyrocket should dagger collectors get into the hunt!

quote:

Originally posted by John C. Jacobi:
dave welcome aboard...may your collection grow at a minimum to 100 k98 bayonets :-)

as you begin to look for these bayonets you will find that it wont be easy for you to replicate find the condition of those two beauties. you can buy a sa or ss daggers all day in super condition..that is not the case with k98 bayonets. the prices continue to rise and could skyrocket should dagger collectors get into the hunt!

I stopped using clp due to the teflon pooling up and gunking the blade while in the sheath under long term storage. would like to try the clp collector as soon as my clp with the teflon runs out. lucking the teflon settles on the bottom of the gallon jug i bought 10 years ago.