Hello everyone,

As a new collector in etched blades, I would like to ask some of you some questions with regards to frosting on etched blades.
Ive used the search engine on the forum as well as read several reference books but it appears to presuppose that the reader already knows about frosting.

My questions are:-

1) What is the exact definition on frosting ? Is it a compound made by the etched makers ? Or is similar to a frosting that occurs to an EK , a layer formed after several years?
2) Can frosting be reproduced in etched blades ?
3) When a etched blade has its frosted parts polished and remove, can the frosting occur again ?
4) What is the best way to maintain a frosted etched blade ? Some say use Sudsy Ammonia , Semichrome, etc.
5) If I have a dark spot on a frosted etched blade, is it still possible to remove it without damaging the frosting ?
6) Can a blued etched piece have any frosting on it ?

Shown below are 3 examples of etched blades which is fully frosted, has its frosting removed, and a blued etched piece. ( Pictures courtesy of Craig Gottlieb )








My sincere apologies if my questions are really dumb but I do thank you in advance for any answers given.

Cheers,
Ibrahim,
Singapore.

Ibrahim,

You actually ask very good questions. I have collected etched blade swords for around 50 years and I don't think I have ever come across these specific questions. The answers are in how the blades were made and etched.

Some blades are plated and some are polished steel. This affects the way the etch looks. Often the etching is faint on bare steel because of the depth of the etch, the contrast, or the wear and tear over time. "Frosting" is often simply the contrast between the dull area that has been exposed to the acid and the bright area that has been protected by the resist (i.e. wax or a template). This so-called frosting is actually the damage done by the acid bath eating into the metal. It is attractive, if done properly, and makes a nice contrast.

Typically, frosting is not an application but it can be. Blued, and gilt, panels and background in an etching are typically an application and can very easily be removed by overcleaning. Never clean or polish a blade with blueing or gilt unless you know exactly what you are doing! The applied finish can be wiped away in a moment if you are not careful. Cleaning is a whole other can of worms.

Frosting can be reproduced since the etching process can be reproduced today. Some backgrounds were polished and never had grey "frosting" to begin with. Some blades were plated after etching so the backgrounds have less contrast. The devil is in the details with etching and often the differences between period etching and later fraudulent etching is in technique and understanding the process.

Good questions and I suspect you will get some good answers. There was a good discussion of proper etching practices and techniques but I suspect is has now vanished. I hope this is helpful.

Ibrahim, All in 25 words or less, right (just joking). George has very nicely covered most of the main points. To elaborate a little and fill in some of the details by the numbers:

1) Frosting is a chemical residue which is left by the process of the blade being chemically etched. To etch: The areas on the finish polished blade are covered with an acid resistant wax mask. With openings for where the (nitric) acid is desired to etch. After the etching is complete the acid is neutralized and the mask removed.

2) Yes. As George mentioned, one of the problems facing collectors are very good copies of period etched blades (there are also a lot of inferior etches).

3) Probably not. Although if one wanted to invest enough time and money a re-etching could be done. But the end result likely would not pass inspection (of course taking plain blades and adding postwar etches is done all the time).

4) Semichrome - NO!!! It can remove frosting. George’s admonition to exercise considerable caution in cleaning is excellent advice. (As for ammonia on frosting? Not something I have done as yet, and I’ll have to wait until I get a blade I really, really, don’t care about if I decide to experiment.)

5) More experimentation needed. See #4 (George’s admonition).

6) I really don’t care (myself) for the coloration of the blue on the image as it is posted. But aside from that, as to processes one of the oldest is heat bluing. And while the Germans had some alternate methods/materials as well, cold bluing on steel was usually accomplished by the “rust” bluing process. The hot chemical (black oxide) process. There is also translucent lacquer or a lacquer like blue paint. And the postwar faker’s friend - the various off the shelf chemical “cold blue” solutions that are currently available.

But to answer your question directly - yes frosting can be blued. In fact all of those blue/black mottos/etched characters (gray/dark gray are not included) in the various political daggers (etc.) have been blued. Which was probably right after the etching with the wax masks still in place.

PS: George mentioned blued and gilt blades. And more specifically: “The applied finish can be wiped away in a moment if you are not careful.” That is some more good advice because once the finish is removed that is it. The end!! Here is a middle section of a 200 (plus) year old blue and gold blade. With my point being that simply preserving the finish with a light oil (or other preservative) has enabled it to last reasonably intact this long, versus trying to "clean" any minor imperfections it might have. Regards, FP

I`ve been using sudsy ammonia on etched blades for several years and nothing has happened but getting the dirt off. Tooth brush works well.
I even rinse in WATER and have no ill effects. Just be sure to DRY them and keep water away from hilt!!